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Exterior Cladding in Kedington

Haverhill Roofers fits and repairs timber, fibre cement and composite exterior cladding on homes, extensions and outbuildings in Kedington and the surrounding villages.

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Exterior Cladding · Kedington

Expert Exterior Cladding
in Kedington

What exterior cladding is and what we do

Exterior cladding is a layer of boards or panels fixed to the outside of a wall to protect it from the weather and to change how the building looks. We fit and repair timber, fibre cement and composite cladding on houses, extensions, dormers and outbuildings. The work ranges from replacing a handful of damaged boards on a garage to fully re-cladding a house extension from scratch.

What to do while you are waiting for a contractor to arrive

If your cladding has been damaged suddenly - by a storm, an impact, a fallen branch or a leak that has soaked through - the time between noticing the problem and a contractor arriving matters. What you do in that window can limit how much damage spreads, and what you avoid doing is just as important.

Temporary steps that genuinely help

If a board has come away from the wall and water is getting behind the cladding, the priority is keeping rain out of the gap until the repair is made. A piece of heavy-duty polythene sheet held against the wall with battens or secured under the adjacent board edge can reduce water ingress without causing additional damage. Use fixings only into the existing battens if you can locate them - do not push screws through boards that are still sound if you can avoid it, as extra holes in the wrong place just create new entry points for water.

If a board is cracked but still in position and still fixed securely, leaving it in place is better than pulling it off yourself. A cracked board still offers some weather resistance. A missing board leaves the substrate and the wall directly exposed.

If water has already got behind the boards and you can see or feel damp on an internal wall, keep an eye on it. Note where the wet patch is and how large it is. Take a photo. This information helps a contractor understand quickly where to look and how far the damage may have spread.

Keeping moisture away from exposed areas

If the board damage has left raw timber edges, bare fibre cement or any cut edge exposed to rain, a coat of exterior wood preservative on timber or a quick brush of edge sealant on fibre cement helps slow down moisture absorption while you wait. These products are available at most builders merchants and DIY shops. This is a holding measure, not a repair, but it can make a difference if you are waiting more than a day or two before the contractor arrives.

Do not apply filler, expanding foam or roofing felt over a large damaged area and leave it. These materials can trap moisture behind them and make it harder for the contractor to assess what is underneath when they arrive.

What not to do yourself

This is the part that saves homeowners from making a straightforward job more complicated. There are a few things that are tempting to try but regularly cause additional problems.

  • Do not re-fix a board that has pulled away using just silicone or mastic. Silicone is a sealant, not a structural adhesive. A board held on with silicone alone will pull away again in the next spell of wind, and in doing so it may damage the adjacent boards or strip the batten behind it. Boards need to be fixed with appropriate screws or nails into the battening at the correct spacing.
  • Do not attempt to strip large areas of cladding yourself. Removing boards without knowing what is behind them can damage the membrane underneath, pull out fixings from the battens and leave the wall unprotected for longer than necessary. Even experienced DIYers regularly underestimate how much work a strip-out creates once the boards come off.
  • Do not seal a crack or joint from the outside with a thick bead of external silicone and assume the problem is solved. Water that has already got behind the boards needs a route out. Sealing from the outside without dealing with the back of the board traps moisture, which accelerates rot in timber and can cause fibre cement to delaminate at its edges.
  • Do not climb onto a flat roof or extension roof to reach high cladding. Flat roofs are not designed for foot traffic in the way pitched roofs are not. An EPDM rubber or felt surface can be damaged by foot traffic, especially around edges and upstands, and the damage it causes is often not visible immediately but shows up as a leak later.
  • Do not cut composite cladding with a saw without dust control. Composite boards contain wood fibre and plastic - cutting them creates fine dust that is unpleasant and potentially harmful if inhaled. If you do need to cut a board temporarily for any reason, do it outdoors with a dust mask.

What information to have ready when you call

When you contact a contractor, having a few pieces of information ready makes the conversation more useful and the quote more accurate. Know roughly how large the affected area is - even a rough measurement in metres helps. Know what the cladding material is if you can, or describe what it looks like (smooth flat boards, grooved panels, featheredge timber). If the damage followed a specific event like a storm, say so. And if you have already noticed damp inside, mention it - that changes what the contractor needs to look at first.

The repair and replacement process - what to expect

A cladding repair starts with a physical inspection of the damaged area, including checking the boards either side of the obvious damage and looking at the battening and fixings behind. On a straightforward repair, damaged boards are removed carefully, the substrate is checked and dried if needed, and replacement boards are cut, fixed and finished to match the original as closely as possible. Junctions around windows and corners are re-sealed as part of the job, not as an optional extra.

A full re-clad on an extension or a pair of dormers follows the same sequence but at larger scale: strip, inspect, rebatten where needed, fit new boards from the bottom up, flash and trim all junctions, and finish with any paint or treatment the material requires.

Typical costs

A cladding repair on a small area typically costs £150 to £500 depending on the material and how many boards are affected. Full re-cladding on a modest extension runs from around £900 to £2,500 installed, depending on size, material choice and access. Composite and fibre cement sit at the higher end of material costs; timber is generally lower. Any scaffolding needed for upper elevations or dormers adds to these figures and should be quoted separately so you know what you are paying for.

We cover Kedington and the surrounding area

We are based in nearby Haverhill and cover Kedington along with Saffron Walden, Halstead and Braintree. If your cladding has been damaged or is showing signs of failure, call us to arrange a roof and cladding survey and we will give you a clear picture of what needs doing before you commit to anything.

Why choose Haverhill Roofers?

  • Free survey and itemised quote
  • Fixed price - no surprises
  • Local team

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Urgent leak or storm damage?

Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.

Call now: 01440 840770