Lead work is the traditional way to seal roof junctions, valleys, flashings and chimney stacks. When it fails, water gets in fast. We cut, dress and fix new lead to stop leaks and protect the structure beneath.
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Lead flashings, valleys and soakers are the points where your roof meets a wall, chimney, skylight or adjoining structure. These junctions are where most serious roof leaks begin. When the lead cracks, lifts or corrodes, rainwater tracks straight into the building fabric and the damage spreads quickly into timbers, ceilings and insulation. If you have a damp patch appearing after rain and your tiles look sound, the lead is the first place to investigate.
Lead is a soft, malleable metal that is cut, shaped and dressed by hand to follow the profile of the roof and the masonry. A good lead flashing is not just tucked into a mortar joint and pointed over - the lead is cut to the correct code (thickness), dressed tight to the surface, fixed with clips at regular intervals to allow for thermal movement, and pointed with a flexible mortar or sealant that will hold long-term.
The main types of lead work on a domestic roof include:
Each of these uses a different code of lead. Code 4 is typical for soakers and small flashings. Code 5 is more common for valley linings and aprons. Code 6 is used where there is a large surface area or greater exposure to the weather. Using the correct code matters because undersized lead will crack or lift prematurely under thermal movement.
Lead has a long service life when it is correctly installed, but it does not last indefinitely. A common problem is mortar pointing that has been used as a substitute for proper lead dressing - some installers simply force lead into a joint and rake mortar over it, which looks fine initially but fails within a few years as the mortar shrinks and the lead shifts with temperature change. When you see pointing crumbling away from a flashing, that is a sign the underlying installation may not have been done correctly in the first place.
Thermal movement is the other main cause of failure. Lead expands and contracts significantly over the course of a year, and any fixing method that does not allow for this movement will eventually cause the lead to crack or pull away from the wall. Flashings that have been over-fixed with too many nails, or dressed in single long pieces rather than shorter bays with laps, will fail at the stress points.
On older properties, it is common to find lead work of varying ages and quality mixed together on the same roof. A survey will often reveal one section that is original and still sound alongside a repair that was done cheaply at some point and is already failing.
Older properties often have period features that require careful handling. Older chimney stacks often carry complex lead details that need to be matched correctly when repaired. Removing and re-dressing chimney lead is skilled work - the stack has to be made safe to work around, the old lead stripped cleanly, and the new lead dressed to the correct profile without disturbing the surrounding slates or tiles.
On buildings where the original materials must be preserved or matched, we take care to source lead from a quality supplier and work to the profiles and bay sizes that are appropriate for the age of the building. If a building is subject to planning constraints, it is always worth checking whether any external roofing work requires consent before work starts.
Lead work is priced by the job rather than a simple per-metre rate, because the complexity varies so much between a simple step flashing repair and a full chimney re-lead with back gutter. As a rough guide, replacing the lead flashing around a standard chimney stack typically costs in the region of £400 to £900 depending on size and access. A full valley re-lead on a medium-sized roof might run from £600 to £1,500 or more. Small repairs to a single flashing where the lead itself is sound but the pointing has failed can sometimes be done for £100 to £250.
Lead itself is not a cheap material - the price of lead sheet fluctuates with commodity markets, and this feeds through to the cost of the job. Any quote that seems significantly below these ranges is worth questioning, as it may involve the use of cheaper materials or a less thorough installation method such as lead-effect flashing tape, which is not a like-for-like replacement for dressed lead.
We carry out lead work on properties across Haverhill and nearby towns and villages including Sudbury, Saffron Walden, Newmarket, Halstead, Braintree and Great Dunmow. Exposed elevations take more punishment from the weather and may need attention sooner than sheltered ones.
Properties on exposed sites can be hit by stronger winds, which puts additional stress on lead that has not been secured correctly. A flashing that might hold for years in a sheltered urban terrace can lift and separate much faster on an exposed rural property.
When lead work is done correctly, it should be barely visible - dressed tight, neatly pointed, with clean lines following the profile of the roof. The lead should be fixed at the top edge with lead clips or tacks, not nailed through the face. Each section should be no longer than 1.5 metres before it is lapped, to allow for movement. The joint at the wall should be dressed into a raked mortar chase and pointed with a flexible compound, not rigid cement mortar.
If you are having lead work done for the first time or getting a second opinion, these are the details worth asking about when comparing quotes. The method matters more than the price.
If you have a leak near a chimney, dormer, skylight or where your extension roof meets the house wall, the lead is almost certainly involved. Call us to arrange a survey so we can assess the existing lead, identify what needs doing and give you a clear explanation of the work before anything is agreed.
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